Wholesale south sea pearls : PEARLS QUALITY & PEARLS CRITERIA

The quality of a pearl is determined mainly by the following five factors.

Size
Coating
Luster
Shape
Color

An expert assesses each single criterion on the basis of a detailed grading of the individual factors. In the case of single or double strings of pearls, the combination of individual pearls plays an important role. Nevertheless, the standards used in their assessment are very much more diverse and closely interlinked. A conclusive evaluation of the quality of a pearl or string of pearls therefore calls for enormous experience. (reference: wholesale south sea pearls )

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DETERMINING THE VALUE OF PEARLS – ASPIRING TO THE HIGHEST POSSIBLE QUALITY

Ultimately, the interplay of these quality factors determines the value of a pearl. Assessing these criteria calls for a good deal of experience. In order to simplify the customer’s choice of the right pearls and to guarantee the highest possible quality, Bucherer became the fi rst jewelers worldwide to introduce a pearl certifi cate. Here, an expert provides a detailed description of the individual quality criteria and endorses them for the customer. (reference: wholesale south sea pearls )

A = Top quality in all ranking categories (approx. 3 %).
B = Very good quality, with very slight divergences from top quality (approx. 10 %).
C = Good quality with visible divergences regarding surface quality and shape, good luster (approx. 12 %).
D = Inferior quality with visible divergences in all ranking categories (approx. 25 %).
E = Poor quality with very marked divergences in all ranking categories (approx. 30 %).
F = Defective pearls, which as a rule cannot be used for jewelry (approx. 20 %).

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PEARLS SIZE

Depending on species, pearl size varies between approx. 3 and 18 mm in diameter and in very rare cases may be even larger. The value and rarity of a pearl increase with its size. (reference: wholesale south sea pearls )

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PEARLS SURFACE QUALITY

A pearl’s surface quality is assessed on the basis of the naturally occurring signs of growth. The surface itself should be as smooth and uniform as possible. The smaller the number of natural irregularities, the more valuable the pearl. (reference: wholesale south sea pearls )

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a) Spot Level (type and size of blemish)
b) Distribution of blemishes over the surface

No inclusions, or at least 80 % of the surface is pure, i. e., it has absolutely no imperfections or inclusions, otherwise just very small spots.
At least 60 % of the surface is pure, i. e., it has absolutely no imperfections or inclusions, otherwise just very small spots.
The surface has only few imperfections, i. e. slightly weak spots (not deep) are distributed across the surface.
The surface has many clearly visible inclusions, i. e. relatively deep and visible spots are distributed across the entire surface.

c) Coating
Since pearls are a product of Nature, their coating, or grain, may not always be as flawless as we might wish. Th e structure of a pearl’s skin may range from completely smooth to a coarse grain.

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PEALRS LUSTER

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A pearl’s luster, or inner glow, is the most important factor in assessing its value. It is determined mainly by the layers of nacre and the overall surface quality. Th e better the luster, the more pronounced the pearl’s iridescent shimmer.

Finest quality : very good clarity, optimum refraction, clear reflection
Very fine quality, excellent: very good refraction and good reflection
Fine quality, good : good refraction and reflection
Commercial quality, matte : possibly thin coating with “ milky ” (weak) refraction and reflection

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PEARLS SHAPE

Pearls come in an array of shapes, such as round, drop, pear and baroque. The most coveted – and thus most expensive – of these are perfectly round pearls. Nevertheless, well-balanced baroque shapes are becoming increasingly popular. (reference: wholesale south sea pearls )

SHAPE:

round
near round
drop /oval
button
baroque
circled

PEARLS COLOR

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The choice of color depends on the wearer’s skin tone and personal taste. Regarding color, a basic distinction is made between actual body color and the overtone – the color of the reflection on the surface. Th ese two tones may be identical or completely diff erent. For example, pearls with a basic gray-greenish undertone and intensive iridescence in a different color are known as peacock pearls. (reference: wholesale south sea pearls )

Reflections
like these, however, are also found in other pearls. It is simply that the dual colors of the peacock pearls from French Polynesia are the most readily visible. And because color is a descriptive feature, the variety of descriptions is virtually unlimited. Every pearl possesses a diff erent combination of color and reflection. Its price, therefore, depends very much on the popularity and rarity of the individual color combination. (reference: wholesale south sea pearls )
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